Almost a decade ago, I flew to Los Angeles to visit my cousin. He was living in West Hollywood at the time, dangerously close to one of the best ice cream shops in the country: Salt & Straw. To this day, I have yet to come across a flavor as compelling as the brand’s green fennel and maple.
Given my history, I was understandably excited to hear that Tyler Malek, one of the creative masterminds behind this life-altering scoop, dropped a new cookbook just in time for summer. America’s Most Iconic Ice Creams is a compendium of dairy how-tos, rife with tips detailing how to make better, more interesting ice cream at home. This retrospective of classic flavor combinations, each with a Salt & Straw twist, is a great resource for anyone looking to avoid the classic pitfalls that plague home cooks. One of which, according to Malek, is over-churning.
“When you over-spin your ice cream, you end up adding too much air into the base, resulting in an ice cream that is far too dense,” he wrote via email. “You want to stop spinning when the texture is still a bit loose, and place the ice cream in the freezer to firm up the rest of the way.”
Another oft-repeated misstep? Overdoing it on the cream. Per Malek, too much of this good thing results in an “oily mouthfeel and affects the overall flavor profile of your final product, so pay attention to measurements.”
His last piece of advice is to always use the highest quality ingredients you can find. He recommends sourcing milk from local dairy farms and using in-season, organic produce whenever possible. “Ice cream,” he assured me, “is only as good” as its base components.
Read on for more of Malek’s tips and tricks, including the tools he swears by for making professional-level ice cream at home. I, for one, can’t wait to break out my ice cream maker, crack open this cookbook, and get churning. It’s going to be my tastiest summer yet.
Pro-Approved Ice Cream-Making Tools
- Cuisinart Ice Cream Maker Machine, $53, originally $80
- KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker Stand Mixer Attachment, $70, originally $100
- Breville Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker, $500
- John Boos Maple Cutting Board, $125
- Zeroll Ice Cream Scoop, $18, originally $27
- Waring Quik Stix Immersion Blender, $133
- Made In Cookware 2-Quart Saucepan, $149
Cuisinart Ice Cream Maker Machine
Amazon
If you’re just starting your ice cream-making journey, Malek recommends this Cuisinart machine. He called it a “great low-cost option” with a small profile. The only caveat is that you have to freeze your bowl for at least 16 hours before using it. Without the frozen bowl, your mixture will not cool down to the proper temperature and solidify.
KitchenAid Ice Cream Maker Stand Mixer Attachment
Amazon
Alternatively, Malek suggests grabbing this handy attachment if you already own one of KitchenAid’s famous stand mixers. As before, you freeze the bowl ahead of time. When it’s properly cold, simply lock the bowl into place, turn your mixer on to its lowest setting, and let it work its magic.
Breville Smart Scoop Ice Cream Maker
Amazon
“While they are the priciest options on the market, an internal compressor is my preferred type of machine,” wrote Malek. “Machines like this one churn faster, resulting in less air and better butterfat texture. This, in turn, produces an ice cream base with a better mouthfeel.” As I’ve owned this machine for about two years, I can personally attest to how easy it is to use. I also love that I don’t have to sacrifice precious freezer space to one of the aforementioned bowls.
John Boos Maple Cutting Board
Amazon
Whether you’re chopping fresh strawberries for a seasonal ice cream project or carving meat for a barbecue, you’ll want to use John Boos’ wooden cutting board. Malek pulls his out daily, adoring its “craftsmanship and quality.” And he’s not alone. It has thousands of five-star ratings on Amazon and is highly recommended by our team and celebrity chefs alike.
Zeroll Ice Cream Scoop
Amazon
After over a decade of leading Salt & Straw, Malek knows his way around an ice cream scoop. His favorite? Zeroll, for its ability to “scoop easily, producing a perfectly round ball of ice cream every time.” Our editors also love it, citing its “sharpened edge” and clever heat-conducting design as major selling points. Grab it while it’s on sale.
Waring Quik Stix Immersion Blender
Amazon
Malek uses Waring’s immersion blender religiously, writing that it’s “the best at combining ingredients in an ice cream mix.” It quickly emulsifies olive oil and mashes berries, plus it’s a cinch to wash since the removable shaft is dishwasher-safe.
Made In Cookware 2-Quart Saucepan
Amazon
Malek firmly believes that “a good saucepan will go a long way in the kitchen,” and Made In makes one of his favorites. It’s a great tool to have on hand if you’re infusing cream for ice cream or poaching eggs for breakfast, making it one of his most versatile recommendations on this list. Don’t wait too long to buy it — there are only 10 left in stock on Amazon.
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